Document Detail


New alternatives to cosmetics preservation.
MedLine Citation:
PMID:  20447363     Owner:  NLM     Status:  MEDLINE    
Abstract/OtherAbstract:
In recent years, there is a considerable interest in the development of preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics. The aim of our work was to develop new cosmetic formulations by replacing chemical preservatives with ingredients with antimicrobial properties that are not legislated as preservatives according to Annex VI of Commission Directive 76/768/EEC. This paper describes the preservative efficacy of the well-known antimicrobial extracts of Lonicera caprifoleum and Lonicera japonica in combination with glyceryl caprylate and/or levulinic acid, p-anisic acid, and ethanol. We prepared a series of acidic (pH = 5.5) aqueous and O/W formulations, i.e., tonic lotion, shampoo, shower gel, conditioning cream, anticellulite cream, cleansing milk and peeling cream, containing (0.2% w/w) Lonicera extracts, alone in the case of tonic lotion and in combination with (1% w/w) glyceryl caprylate in the other products, and we performed challenge tests according to the European Pharmacopoeia procedures and criteria. Formulations such as shampoo, shower gel, and conditioning cream fulfilled criterion A, while tonic lotion, anticellulite cream, cleansing milk, and peeling cream fulfilled criterion B, in regard to contamination from A. niger. Furthermore, we evaluated the efficacy of the antimicrobial systems in two states of use: the intact product and after three weeks of consumer use. The results showed that A. niger was also detected during use by consumers in the products that satisfied only criterion B in challenge tests. The addition of antimicrobial fragrance ingredients such (< or = 0.3% w/w) levulinic acid or (0.1% w/w) p-anisic acid and/or (5% w/w) ethanol afforded products that met criterion A in challenge tests and were also microbiologically safe during use. The small quantity (5% w/w) of ethanol gave an important assistance in order to boost the self-preserving system and to produce stable and safe products.
Authors:
S Papageorgiou; A Varvaresou; E Tsirivas; C Demetzos
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Publication Detail:
Type:  Journal Article    
Journal Detail:
Title:  Journal of cosmetic science     Volume:  61     ISSN:  1525-7886     ISO Abbreviation:  J Cosmet Sci     Publication Date:    2010 Mar-Apr
Date Detail:
Created Date:  2010-05-07     Completed Date:  2010-06-24     Revised Date:  -    
Medline Journal Info:
Nlm Unique ID:  9814276     Medline TA:  J Cosmet Sci     Country:  United States    
Other Details:
Languages:  eng     Pagination:  107-23     Citation Subset:  IM    
Affiliation:
Laboratory of Cosmetology, Department of Aesthetics and Cosmetology, School of Health & Caring Professions, Technological Educational Institution, Ag. Spyridonos Str., 12210 Egaleo, Frezyderm S.A., Medicine-Cosmetics, 4 Tatoiou Avenue, 14451 Metamorphosi, Athens, Greece.
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MeSH Terms
Descriptor/Qualifier:
Aspergillus niger / drug effects
Cosmetics*
Lonicera / chemistry
Plant Extracts* / pharmacology
Species Specificity
Chemical
Reg. No./Substance:
0/Cosmetics; 0/Plant Extracts

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