| Measuring lifting forces in rock climbing: effect of hold size and fingertip structure. | |
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MedLine Citation:
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PMID: 21451181 Owner: NLM Status: In-Data-Review |
Abstract/OtherAbstract:
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This study investigates the hypothesis that shallow edge lifting force in high-level rock climbers is more strongly related to fingertip soft tissue anatomy than to absolute strength or strength to body mass ratio. Fifteen experienced climbers performed repeated maximal single hand lifting exercises on rectangular sandstone edges of depth 2.8, 4.3, 5.8, 7.3, and 12.5 mm while standing on a force measurement platform. Fingertip soft tissue dimensions were assessed by ultrasound imaging. Shallow edge (2.8 and 4.3 mm) lifting force, in newtons or body mass normalized, was uncorrelated with deep edge (12.5 mm) lifting force (r < .1). There was a positive correlation (r = .65, p < .05) between lifting force in newtons at 2.8 mm edge depth and tip of bone to tip of finger pulp measurement (r < .37 at other edge depths). The results confirm the common perception that maximum lifting force on a deep edge ("strength") does not predict maximum force production on very shallow edges. It is suggested that increased fingertip pulp dimension or plasticity may enable increased deformation of the fingertip, increasing the skin to rock contact area on very shallow edges, and thus increase the limit of force production. The study also confirmed previous assumptions of left/right force symmetry in climbers. |
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Authors:
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Roger Bourne; Mark Halaki; Benedicte Vanwanseele; Jillian Clarke |
Publication Detail:
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Type: Journal Article |
Journal Detail:
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Title: Journal of applied biomechanics Volume: 27 ISSN: 1065-8483 ISO Abbreviation: J Appl Biomech Publication Date: 2011 Feb |
Date Detail:
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Created Date: 2011-03-31 Completed Date: - Revised Date: - |
Medline Journal Info:
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Nlm Unique ID: 9315240 Medline TA: J Appl Biomech Country: United States |
Other Details:
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Languages: eng Pagination: 40-6 Citation Subset: IM |
Affiliation:
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Medical Radiation Sciences, Faculty of Health Sciences, University of Sydney, Sydney, Australia. |
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From MEDLINE®/PubMed®, a database of the U.S. National Library of Medicine
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