| George I. Finch and his pioneering use of oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes. | |
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MedLine Citation:
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PMID: 12679344 Owner: NLM Status: MEDLINE |
Abstract/OtherAbstract:
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George Ingle Finch (1888-1970) was the first person to prove the great value of supplementary oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes. He did this during the 1922 Everest expedition when he and his companion, Geoffrey Bruce, reached an altitude of 8,320 m, higher than any human had climbed before. Finch was well qualified to develop the oxygen equipment because he was an eminent physical chemist. Many of the features of the 1922 design are still used in modern oxygen equipment. Finch also demonstrated an extraordinary tolerance to severe acute hypoxia in a low-pressure chamber experiment. Remarkably, despite Finch's desire to participate in the first three Everest expeditions in 1921-1924, he was only allowed to be a member of one. His rejection from the 1921 expedition was based on medical reports that were apparently politically biased. Then, following his record ascent in 1922, he was refused participation in the 1924 expedition for complex reasons related to his Australian origin, his forthright and unconventional views, and the fact that some people in the climbing establishment in Britain saw Finch as an undesirable outsider. |
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Authors:
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John B West |
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Publication Detail:
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Type: Biography; Historical Article; Journal Article; Portraits; Research Support, U.S. Gov't, P.H.S.; Review |
Journal Detail:
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Title: Journal of applied physiology (Bethesda, Md. : 1985) Volume: 94 ISSN: 8750-7587 ISO Abbreviation: J. Appl. Physiol. Publication Date: 2003 May |
Date Detail:
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Created Date: 2003-04-07 Completed Date: 2003-11-26 Revised Date: 2008-11-21 |
Medline Journal Info:
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Nlm Unique ID: 8502536 Medline TA: J Appl Physiol Country: United States |
Other Details:
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Languages: eng Pagination: 1702-13 Citation Subset: IM |
Affiliation:
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Department of Medicine, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, California 92093-0623. |
Export Citation:
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APA/MLA Format Download EndNote Download BibTex |
| MeSH Terms | |
Descriptor/Qualifier:
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Altitude* Altitude Sickness / history, prevention & control Australia History, 20th Century Humans Mountaineering / history* Oxygen Inhalation Therapy / history*, instrumentation |
| Grant Support | |
ID/Acronym/Agency:
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R01 HL-60698/HL/NHLBI NIH HHS |
| Personal Name Subject | |
Personal Name Subject:
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George I Finch |
From MEDLINE®/PubMed®, a database of the U.S. National Library of Medicine
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