Document Detail


George I. Finch and his pioneering use of oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes.
MedLine Citation:
PMID:  12679344     Owner:  NLM     Status:  MEDLINE    
Abstract/OtherAbstract:
George Ingle Finch (1888-1970) was the first person to prove the great value of supplementary oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes. He did this during the 1922 Everest expedition when he and his companion, Geoffrey Bruce, reached an altitude of 8,320 m, higher than any human had climbed before. Finch was well qualified to develop the oxygen equipment because he was an eminent physical chemist. Many of the features of the 1922 design are still used in modern oxygen equipment. Finch also demonstrated an extraordinary tolerance to severe acute hypoxia in a low-pressure chamber experiment. Remarkably, despite Finch's desire to participate in the first three Everest expeditions in 1921-1924, he was only allowed to be a member of one. His rejection from the 1921 expedition was based on medical reports that were apparently politically biased. Then, following his record ascent in 1922, he was refused participation in the 1924 expedition for complex reasons related to his Australian origin, his forthright and unconventional views, and the fact that some people in the climbing establishment in Britain saw Finch as an undesirable outsider.
Authors:
John B West
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Publication Detail:
Type:  Biography; Historical Article; Journal Article; Portraits; Research Support, U.S. Gov't, P.H.S.; Review    
Journal Detail:
Title:  Journal of applied physiology (Bethesda, Md. : 1985)     Volume:  94     ISSN:  8750-7587     ISO Abbreviation:  J. Appl. Physiol.     Publication Date:  2003 May 
Date Detail:
Created Date:  2003-04-07     Completed Date:  2003-11-26     Revised Date:  2013-09-26    
Medline Journal Info:
Nlm Unique ID:  8502536     Medline TA:  J Appl Physiol (1985)     Country:  United States    
Other Details:
Languages:  eng     Pagination:  1702-13     Citation Subset:  IM    
Affiliation:
Department of Medicine, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, California 92093-0623.
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MeSH Terms
Descriptor/Qualifier:
Altitude*
Altitude Sickness / history,  prevention & control
Australia
History, 20th Century
Humans
Mountaineering / history*
Oxygen Inhalation Therapy / history*,  instrumentation
Grant Support
ID/Acronym/Agency:
R01 HL-60698/HL/NHLBI NIH HHS
Personal Name Subject
Personal Name Subject:
George I Finch

From MEDLINE®/PubMed®, a database of the U.S. National Library of Medicine


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