Document Detail

Active recovery strategies and handgrip performance in trained vs. untrained climbers.
MedLine Citation:
PMID:  20072048     Owner:  NLM     Status:  MEDLINE    
Isometric contractions, such as occurring during rock climbing, occlude blood flow to the active musculature. The ability to maximize forearm blood flow between such contractions is a likely determinant of intermittent handgrip performance. This study aimed to test the hypothesis that intermittent isometric handgrip performance is improved by 2 common active recovery strategies suggested to increase muscle blood flow. On 6 separate occasions, 9 trained indoor rock climbers and 9 untrained participants undertook a fatiguing, intermittent, isometric handgrip exercise bout consisting of sets of 6 contractions (approximately 33% of maximal voluntary contraction [MVC] force), each 3-second long separated by a 1-second rest. Between sets, participants were allowed 9-second recovery performing passive rest, "shaking out" (vigorously shaking the hand), or grasping a handgrip vibration machine, each with or without forearm occlusion. Performance was assessed by pre- and post-exercise MVC trials and a 20-contraction post-exercise handgrip time trial (TT20). Trained climbers exhibited significantly greater handgrip MVC force and intermittent exercise capacity than untrained (p < 0.01). There was no effect of recovery strategy on any measure (p > 0.05). Trained climbers were more affected by occlusion than untrained in MVC (p < 0.05) and TT20 (p < 0.01). Shaking out and low-frequency vibration are unlikely to affect rock climbing performance. It is recommended that rock climbers and their coaches focus on optimizing body position rather than compromising body position to allow for shaking out.
Jackson G Green; Stephen R Stannard
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Publication Detail:
Type:  Journal Article; Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't    
Journal Detail:
Title:  Journal of strength and conditioning research / National Strength & Conditioning Association     Volume:  24     ISSN:  1533-4287     ISO Abbreviation:  J Strength Cond Res     Publication Date:  2010 Feb 
Date Detail:
Created Date:  2010-02-03     Completed Date:  2010-05-05     Revised Date:  -    
Medline Journal Info:
Nlm Unique ID:  9415084     Medline TA:  J Strength Cond Res     Country:  United States    
Other Details:
Languages:  eng     Pagination:  494-501     Citation Subset:  IM    
Institute of Food, Nutrition and Human Health, Massey University, Palmerston, New Zealand.
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MeSH Terms
Analysis of Variance
Forearm / blood supply*
Hand Strength / physiology*
Mountaineering / physiology*
Muscle Contraction / physiology*
Muscle Fatigue / physiology
Muscle, Skeletal / blood supply*
Recovery of Function*

From MEDLINE®/PubMed®, a database of the U.S. National Library of Medicine

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